Punta Areanas, Chile; A Small City on the Strait of Magellan

We made it into a port!  Yay!  We have been on the ship since the Falkland Islands, 6 full days!  The last time I’ve been at sea that long was 1986, when I spent 35 days at sea in the Navy!  Ok, 6 days was a lot easier to deal with, particularly when the food is WAY better, and I didn’t have to work 20 hours a day!  Trust me, the Navy is rough, at least back then it was.

We didn’t have an excursion here since outside of the city there really isn’t that much to see, so we braved the “do you want a tour?” folks just outside the terminal and walked into town.  The first spot that got our attention was this statue of a dude pointing towards our ship.  This is Bernardo O’Higgins, one of the founding fathers of Chile who was instrumental in freeing Chile from Spain in the early 1800’s.

We then came upon the most visited site in Punta Arenas, Plaza de Armas.  This statue of Ferdinand Magellan, commemorating his discovery of the strait of Magellan in 1520,  is definitely the most photographed spot in the city.

This monument was unveiled in 1920 on the 400th anniversary of Magellan’s discovery.  On the other side of the statue is this indigenous person with a dangling foot that has a bit of folklore.  As can be seen by the highly polished foot, if you touch this you are guaranteed to come back to Punta Arenas.  I don’t get it, the spot is nice and all, but would I want to come back?  We opted out of touching the foot.  Let me say, it was hard to get a shot without somebody gleefully starting at the camera while touching it!!

These huge trees encircle Plaza de Armas.  It is a gorgeous spot.

Directly across the street from the plaza is the Cathedral of Punta Arenas, this pretty little church.

We loved the colors of this church, particularly the ceiling.

As well as the mosaic of Jesus Christ above the altar.  Love the colors!

Across the street Kim and Julie found this King Penguin and her baby looking for attention!  I can’t believe they put a chain around the poor mama!!  Would somebody actually steal this?

We then started making our way up the street to Mirador Cerro de la Cruz, a viewpoint looking over the city.  On the way I noted more excellent electrician work that must be recorded for posterity!  WTF??

Here is the view from the top!

Our cruise ship is on the right, with a Regent Seven Seas ship on the left.

Looking back down the street towards the city center.  Note the church we just visited on the left side of the street.  It’s a pretty small city.

Kim, Julie and Tony at the viewpoint!  I’ve gotta say that Tony and Julie have been awesome to travel with!  This is our 3rd trip with them (Iceland, Canada/East Coast and now this trip).

If I see a compass rose somewhere I pretty much always take a photo!  For those that don’t know, west in Spanish is oeste.

Not too far away, on a somewhat hidden street, is this beautiful set of mosaic murals!  I only found this because I was scrolling on my phone while we were at the viewpoint.  This should be a top destination if you already made your way up the hill!  First up is Ferdinand Magellan’s ship in the strait.

Followed by this mosaic of sea life.  These are so cool, and they are in the middle of a rather distressed neighborhood.  This town is covered in graffitti, but at least they have the common decency to leave these works of art alone.

These would make an excellent series of t-shirts, or at the very least an awesome set of coasters!

We turned the corner and lo and behold, there are more!

This one was so colorful it had to be in the blog!

This one has a very angry dude at the bottom of the mosaic, which is some sort of uniformed officer?  Not sure, but he’s pissed about something.  Click on the photo, zoom in and then let me know your thoughts.  It was at least nice to see the American flag.

On our way back down the hill we passed these directional signs.  They even list Sacramento and Silicon Valley, a mere 11,000 or so km away.

We stopped for lunch at this excellent little restaurant near the viewpoint called La Yegua Loca, which I had noted was #1 on Trip Advisor when I was thinking about eating dinner in town.  Lunch will do though!  The food was excellent, so make a point of having lunch here!  The view is also quite good.

From here we walked to a supermarket in hopes of finding the local beer I had at lunch, Austral Yagan Dark Ale.  They had every other beer of theirs but this one.  Damn.  We then walked to the waterfront along Magellan Strait.  This sculpture is a monument to Magellan’s circumnavigation of the globe.

Further along the waterfront is this monument to the crew of the schooner Ancud.  The Ancud and her 23 crew members sailed into the Strait of Magellan in 1843, claiming it for Chile.

Pretty cool statue!  Here is the view of the port side.

These city signs are in every port!  It was surprising to not have 20 people posing around it!

This ghostly relic of a pier makes for a nice photo.

It also provides a safe spot for the birds to hang out!

One last statue along the shoreline before we headed back onboard the ship.  This is a monument to Chilean naval pilot Luis Pardo, who led the heroic 1916 rescue of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s crew from Elephant Island in Antarctica after their ship was lost in the ice.  The actual bow section of the rescue vessel “Yelcho” is featured in the monument, along with a statue of Pardo pointing towards Antarctica.

That night we were treated to an excellent sunset!

That just kept getting better and better!!

Coming up next, we spend two more days at sea before visiting Puerto Chacabuco, Chile.

 

Antarctica, South Shetland Islands; Sunset in Gerlache Strait, King George Island, Beagle Channel and Glacier Alley

We had a few more photos from our perfect Antarctica day at sunset, I just couldn’t fit them into the prior post as it was getting a tad long.  As we cruised through the Gerlache Strait this spot on the Antarctic Peninsula stood out in the last of the days sun.

As did this spot.  It’s amazing what those last rays of the day can do to enhance a photo!  Impressive wall of ice here!

One more shot of the peninsula since this cloud started dropping over the mountain top.

That was it for “the perfect Antarctic day”.  We woke up the next morning to fully overcast skies.  Our luck had run out.  Still, the sights are beautiful, just not with the same level of clarity and the “blue” we have come to love in the glacial ice.  As we neared King George Island we ran across yet another beautiful iceberg (are there ever ugly ones?).

Upon entering Admiralty Bay we ran across another rather unique (I know they are all unique, but how did this shape happen?) iceberg.  Is it a bird?  A plane?

There are several glaciers advancing into the bay.  I was surprised with how tall this wall of glacial ice was despite there not being much of a mountain behind it.

It was cold again, so we were bundled up!

Admiralty Bay is home to several research stations.  This one looked pretty high end compared to others.  This is Carlini Base, another Argentine research station.

We only stayed in Admiralty Bay about an hour.  Even if the sun had been out it wouldn’t have come close to the beauty of Paradise Bay.  I know, we are spoiled!

One last look at this crazy iceberg.  It could be a float in the Rose Parade!

From there we exited the bay and started heading north back across the Drake Passage.  We were quite lucky as once again the seas were quite mild compared to what they can be.

On the downside, our Captain is either trying to save money on a port stop or is just extremely conservative, as we skipped our next port of Ushuaia due to it being a tad windy.  He was nice enough to cruise by it so we could see what we were missing!  Trust me, I was NOT happy!  Missing port calls has become quite the aggravating trend with Oceania.

Ushuaia lays along the Beagle Channel, named after Charles Darwin’s voyage of discovery through the area in 1833 aboard HMS Beagle.

Despite my disappointment in missing Ushuaia, at least the channel views are excellent.

Shortly after passing Ushuaia we entered the famous “Glacier Alley”!  The sun was popping in and out, making for excellent photos.

Several of these glaciers made it right down to the water.

Love the blue glacial ice!  This is Glacier Italiano.  A series of glaciers in the area are  named after several European countries (including Hollanda and Francia).

A closeup of Italiano glacier.

Inside the Beagle Channel there are several sections where the glacial water pouring into the salt water creates this unique and very obvious dividing line.

All of these glaciers feed off of the massive Cordillera Darwin Icefield, one of the largest icefields in the Southern Hemisphere outside of Antarctica.  This is Glacier Francia.  As this glacier recedes the naturalists have discovered several fully loaded rifles dropped by the French in WWII.  How they made it here from the Maginot Line is a mystery.

Glacier Alley saved the best one for last.  This is the stunning Romanche Glacier.  Named after the French Navy frigate “La Romanche”, which explored this area  in 1882/1883.

The sheer amount of water gushing out of this glacier required a video!  Amazing!  Unfortunately the video quality was just so-so without some sun.

After exiting Glacier Alley we headed north towards our next stop, Punta Areanas.  The Chiliean fjords are almost as spectacular as Norway.

One last shot before it got too dark and rainy for further photos.

Coming up next, our cruise ship actually docks, and we visit Punta Arenas, our first stop in Chile.