Montevideo, Uruguay; City Sights and Marichal Winery!

The next day was a day at sea and we had a wine tasting on board.  While it was interesting, these were all mostly wines we were well aware of, and not higher end.  It seems it’s mostly to get you to try wines they offer on the ship?  Oh well, it killed an hour and a half.

During this sea day we finally left Brazilian waters and not a minute too soon.  We were notified when we boarded the ship that any purchases made on the ship, including wine, spirits, or anything from the shops onboard, were being charged an extra 25% fee payable to Brazil.  I have no idea why, but this fee has been in place for cruise ships since 2014.

Pulling into Montevideo I saw they were actively filling in a part of the harbor to expand their port facilities.

After docking, directly outside our stateroom, was this ship/boat graveyard.  I’m surprised to see this in such a public setting.  This is also an environmental hazard as these vessels will all end up leaking toxins into the bay.  Curious as Uruguay is supposed to be extremely environmentally conscious.

We had a private tour with Gonzalo from Tours By Locals, a company that consistently has some of the best tour guides no matter where we go!  Gonzalo was excellent!  Our first stop was the Port Market adjacent to the maritime area where we docked.  It has several restaurants and shops, as well as this old four-faced clock imported from Liverpool, England and installed in 1897.  Looks a bit like a miniature Big Ben.

Montevideo is a gorgeous city, extremely clean and has probably the most attractive people we’ve seen in South America.  It has a very European feel to it and is considered the safest country in Latin America.  We stopped in Zabala Square, where Gonzalo discussed Bruno Zabala, the Spanish military officer and governor who founded Montevideo in 1726 by expelling the Portuguese forces from the area.

It was here that Gonzalo explained how Montevideo got its name.  The hill depicted here is the highest point in the city, which explains “Monte”, a theory held as true by everybody.

Gonzalo then laid out a hypothesis for the “video” portion, however, from doing my own research (which I always do…I don’t trust anybody!) it seems there are several interpretations for the “video” part, with the bulk of the belief being that a sailor on Magellan’s 1520 expedition stated “Monte vide eu”, which is Portuguese for “I see a mountain/hill”.  Gonzalo’s theory wasn’t even listed in the top 6!  Oh well, perhaps it was trendy?

This Harris’ Hawk is apparently a regular in Zabala Square.

We then visited Plaza Matriz, founded in 1726 and the sight of the signing of Uruguay’s Constitution in 1830, immediately after obtaining independence from Brazil.  I think it’s safe to say Montevideo has a lot of squares!

It was here we entered the Metropolitan Cathedral, Uruguay’s main catholic temple.  That’s Gonzalo to the right of Kim.

Plenty of gold leaf adorn the altar area.

I really liked the colorful tile flooring in the church!

Yet another square, this one Independence Square, has a huge statue of Uruguay’s most important historical hero, Jose Artigas.  Born in Montevideo, her grew up as a cowboy before joining the Spanish military in 1797.  When the Spanish American wars of independence began he sided with Buenos Aires against Spain and accomplished key victories.  While he ended up living his later years in exile in Paraguay, he laid the foundation for Uruguay’s struggle for independence and progressive ideals.

This building on Independence Square is Salvo Palace, one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city.  Built between 1923 and 1928.  At 344′ tall, it was briefly the tallest building in Latin America.  Originally planned as a luxury hotel, it flopped due to lack of demand, and became a mix of apartments and office/commercial spaces.  It really stood out to me on the skyline as our ship neared the city.

This is a replica of the “Gateway to the Citadel”, when the city was surrounded by a fortified wall.

Just behind this is Uruguay’s Walk of Fame, with famous people represented by the sun from the Uruguay flag.

Here is Uruguay’s Parliament building, which houses their Senators.  The Representatives are in a building directly adjacent, and connected with an underground tunnel.

Pretty cool architecture!  The flag on the right is for the Netherlands, as they were apparently visiting while we were there.

Before we departed the city for our winery visit we stopped by Gonzalo’s place, as everybody wanted to see his dogs.  It was right on the way, so why not!

We drove about 40 minutes to what Gonzalo feels is the best winery in Uruguay.  Along the way he spotted this Burrowing Owl on the side of the road.  They are often active during the day since they are diurnal.

We then pulled into the beautiful Marichal Winery!

We were greeted by the lovely Lorena, who got us out of the heat and into a tasting room.

We tried 5 wines.  First up was their Sauvignon Blanc, which was decent.  Next was their Albarino, which was excellent!  I could have sworn it was from Spain!

I was looking for pricing on that wine via winesearcher.com and an unusual label came up, which I showed Lorena and she said “oh, we have to try that”.  First however was their Pinot Noir, and as a Pinot aficionado, I have to say, it’s not going to beat California.  Ok, onto the unusual wine, Ancellotta.  Interesting “Where the Wild Things Are” label, but even better was the wine was awesome!  Ancellotta is a rather rare Italian red varietal, and I was immediately drawn to it.

Last but not least was Uruguay’s most famous wine, Tannat.  I found Marichal’s 2020 Tannat to be the perfect blend of body and fruit, and will only get better with age!  This winery has some sweet stuff going on!  I even purchased a 2005 to try it side by side with the 2020 and it was still exceptional!  Yes, the wine in that glass is 26 years old….doesn’t look it!

Marichal is not some backwoods winery either, as they scored the 2020 #61 Wine for Wine Spectator for their 2018 Tannat!

We even took a short stroll in the vineyards, which are about a month away from harvest.  Here is some Tannat ripening on the vine.

One last shot of the gang in the tasting room!

Coming up next, we visit Buenos Aires, Argentina, and have another excellent tour with “Tours by Locals” guide Guillermo!

 

 

Balneario Camboriu, Brazil; Mountain Gondola, Itajai sights, Oldest Church in Balneario, What a Sunset!

Our last stop in Brazil was in the city of Balneario Comboriu that has a gorgeous skyline!  Brazil is far more built up than I expected it to be.

We had to anchor out here as it doesn’t appear they have the infrastructure for cruise ships.  We met our excellent guide Cynthia from “Top Private Tours” just after getting off the tender.  She advised us that since it was a Sunday it was best to visit nearby Unipraias Park before it got too crowded.  This mountain park is accessed via a very modern gondola system.

This thing moves WAY faster than the chairlift in Santos, and delivers amazing views!!  There’s our ship, the Oceania Marina in the harbor.

This map depicts everything available via the gondola system, including zip lines, a mountain coaster and even a kids train ride.  There are also some hiking trails at the top.  Best of all there is a bar serving excellent Caiprahinas!!  It was close enough to noon for me!

The gondola has two stops, at the mountaintop and Laranjeiras Beach, which is only accessible from the water or the gondola, and was the reason the gondola system was conceived in the first place.

Had to get a shot of us with the ship in the background.

Here is a view of the same beach from the top of the mountain.  The steel ropes at the bottom of the photo are for the very long zip line!

Kenton, MP and Devona decided they had to do the zip-line, so I shot a short video.

You can see the gondolas heading down to the beach stop.

If nothing else make sure you take the gondola up just for the views!

Another view of our ship from the top.  In the far background is the city of Itajai, our next stop of the tour.  Interesting to note how much suspended mud is visible in the water around our ship.

One last photo from the top.  This unique store was selling a vast assortment of knives, what appear to be baseball bats of various sizes and beer on tap.  It must be a Brazilian thing?

At the bottom of the gondola ride you could see the line waiting to go up had grown to several hundred people, so if you visit make sure you do this early in the day, as it’s very popular!

We hopped into a van and started heading towards Itajai along the city’s waterfront boulevard, Atlantic Avenue.  If you want a churro this is the place for you!  There were churro booths seemingly every 100 feet along the beach!   I never connected churros to Brazilians.

Our guide Cynthia asked if we wanted to visit their fish market, and after the previous day in Santos our entire group chimed in unison “no!”.  They are seemingly very proud of their fish markets.  As we entered the city of Itajai we drove along the ocean and Cynthia pointed out Parrot Rock.

We then visited Blessed Sacrament Parish, the main Catholic church in Itajai.  Stunning building from the outside, it was built fairly recently with construction completed in 1955.

Beautiful ceiling!

The altar has some impressive stained glass windows.

As well as this devotional setup depicting Our Lady of the Navigators/Seafarers (one of many titles held by the Virgin Mary).  She is the protector of the local sailors and fisherman.  The boat is named “Esperanca” (Hope in Portuguese).

After arriving back in Balneario Camboriu, a smaller group of us was led by Cynthia across the river via this pedestrian bridge.  I was shocked with how beautiful the wooden flooring was!  It was a hot day but the breeze blew right though this bridge making it quite pleasant.

On the other side and up a flight of stairs is this little church, Capela Santa Amaro.  This was the first church in the city, dating back to 1758.

This is the only remaining colonial-style building in the city.

It’s got a more modern paint job on the altar.

The sign on this bell indicates it was cracked during intense continuous ringing on May 13, 1888 – the day Brazil’s Golden Law abolished slavery.  The free slaves rang the bell for 24 hours straight!

Here is another view of the pedestrian bridge crossing the Camboriu River from just outside the church.

That night while walking to dinner I saw this incredible view on the shoreline!  It looked like the beach was on fire…I’ve never seen anything quite like it!

Here is a closer view.  A definite “wow” moment!!

Coming up next, we visit Montevideo, Uruguay, check out the beautiful city, and visit an AMAZING winery!!