On our second day, on the advice of our guide, we visited the Dohaney Street Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe, and the 2nd largest in the world (behind NYC). Built between 1854 and 1859, it’s quite the site to behold!
We had to wait a half hour before the next English guided tour, so we walked through the attached museum. I liked this Torah Pointer, which was hidden from the Nazi’s in 1943.
I found this postcard to be of interest. As you can read below, when people arrived at Auschwitz they were forced to write a note to their relatives, hoping to assure them that everything was fine.
We then entered the synagogue and found the English version of the tour. They had several different languages represented. The tour guide advised that a synagogue is normally square with a raised platform (bimah) in the center of the square from which services are conducted, versus this one, which looks more like a Catholic Church.
The synagogue even has an organ, which is usually unheard of, as they don’t usually play music, other than singing. This organ is behind the Ark, and therefore “outside” the church. It’s also played by a non-Jew, so apparently that makes it all ok. I’m not religious, so this is all news to me.
Back in 1944, the synagogue was part of the Jewish Ghetto, the place where the Nazi’s sent the Jews. Over two thousand Jews who died in the ghetto from the cold and starvation during the winter of 1944-1945 are buried in 24 mass graves in the courtyard of the synagogue.
Here is a photo of the mass graves shortly after the burials. It’s interesting to note that it is not customary to have a cemetery next to a synagogue, and the establishment of this burial ground is only the result of the situation with all of the dead bodies in the Jewish ghetto.
Past the courtyard our guide took us to the back of the synagogue where this memorial to Sir Nicholas Winton stands. He was instrumental in saving 669 Czech children from Nazi occupied Czechoslovakia during the 9 months before war broke out in 1939. He is depicted by Anthony Hopkins in the movie “One Life”, coming out later this year.
The other piece or artwork adjacent to this is the “Emanuel Memorial Tree”, depicting the 600,000 Hungarian Jews murdered by the Nazis. Built in 1991, this tree was paid for by the actor Tony Curtis for his Hungarian-born father, Emanuel Schwartz.
The display resembles a weeping willow whose leaves have inscriptions with the names of those who were murdered.
This plaque is also in the same square. It makes for quite the somber visit.
One last shot of the front of the synagogue.
After the synagogue we needed a diversion, so we headed to the second spot my friend Paul Fridrich, who grew up in these parts, insisted we visit, Gerbeaud Cafe.
The pastry counter was very inviting!
We ended up with a few different pastries, but the Lemon Tart was by far the favorite! This was much better than Hotel Sacher in Vienna….this is a must visit!
We then took a stroll to Buda and back across the beautiful and obviously well maintained Chain Bridge!
The view of Hungarian Parliament from the bridge can’t be beat!
These lions are on every side of the bridge entrances. Love the detail!
One last shot of the bridge as we are heading back towards Pest.
Yet another view of Saint Stephen’s Basilica, this time from the roof of our hotel! Yes, the Aria Hotel has the “Skybar”, with an incredible view over the city! Yet another reason to book this hotel!
Coming up next, we visit the controversial Liberty Square, see both George Bush AND Ronald Reagan, visit the “Shoes on the Danube Bank”, and finally visit Saint Stephen’s Basilica.