Bruges, Belgium

I mentioned previously we saw the movie “In Bruges” back in 2009 or so, and immediately said “we have to go there someday!”.  Someday has arrived!  First things first, Bruges is pronounced without the “s”, so don’t be a newb and say it wrong.

I highly suggest you see the movie, as it will make you want to come here as well, and it’s a pretty damn good dark comedy.

We stayed in the same hotel that the characters in the movie stayed in, Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce Luxe.

The room used in the movie is right next door to ours, but the view on the canal is just as stellar!

The only downside is the constant flow of boats filled with tourists, but at least they stop around 7:00 PM.  Every time I looked out the window somebody was taking my photo!  The hotel is a highlight on the boat tour as it’s also the oldest hotel in Bruges, built in the 16th century.

The photo below shows the exterior of the hotel, and this spot is the most photographed in all of Bruges, with the Belfort in the background.  Our room is in the center of the photo with white framed windows open on the 4th level above the water.  The terrace area in the front of the photo is a Belgian beer bar where you can try dozens of different beers.

Here is a shot at sunset.  Yes, I fed the swans from our window.

As the “gravity challenged” American mentions to Colin Farrell in the movie, the Belfort of Bruges is the number one attraction to visit.

As was reinforced to us by every boat that passed our room, it’s 366 steps to the top, and there are no elevators (the ADA definitely does not exist in Europe).  There are several floors where you can stop on the way up.  There are also these little signs to let you know how much farther you need to go.

Near the top is this music box type drum that plays the bells like it’s a huge player piano.  They change the music every two years…likely because changing that drum has to be a pain in the ass!  The current song is “Dance of the Hours” from the Opera “La Gioconda”.  You would know it better as the song “Hello Muddah, Hello Fadduh”.  We were pretty sick of it by the end of our time in Bruges.

The view from the top makes the 366 steps worthwhile.  If you click on the photo you can actually see the container cranes at the Port of Zeebrugge on the North Sea, 10 miles away.

The leaders of the city would make important announcements from the balcony at the lower part of the Belfort.  Something along the lines of “free beer and waffles tomorrow”.

Speaking of beer, one of the “must do’s” in Bruges is the Belgian beer tasting.  This sampler was from Bourgogne des Flandres, just 50 meters from our hotel.  The beers and the meatballs were delish!

These beers were from The Beer Experience, just off the main Grote Markt.  I didn’t mention it previously, but the Belgian people are super friendly.  It’s like being back in Portugal!  They nearly all speak excellent English, which is good, because my Flemish sucks.  I think I know “thank you” (Bedankt), but even then I am likely saying it incorrectly.  Anyway, on to the beer!

Even though we saw maybe 300 boats pass our hotel, we had to ride the boat at least once.  Here is the view of our hotel from the boat.  You can see we left a window open when we left for the day.

There is an area in the south of town called Minnewaterpark, which is considered to be the most romantic part of the city.  The water area is quite historic, as this was the area where all of the river barges unloaded their cargo for distribution throughout the region.  The views from here are excellent.  The below shot is the Church of our Lady Bruges.

The Basilica of the Holy Blood is free to visit.  There is a museum attached if you like religious art (yawn).  The building started construction in 1134, and the lower portion remains mostly unchanged, while the upper portion with the Basilica  has been modified numerous times over the years.

The Basilica is so named as they supposedly have some of Christ’s blood inside the church.  The blood is said to be on a piece of cloth that was brought to Bruges in 1150 after the 2nd Crusade.  It is stored inside this tabernacle.  I honestly didn’t know what a “tabernacle” was, but now I do….gaudy gold and marble statue thingy.  Looks like Trumps living room!

Here is a picture of the blood stained cloth inside a vial (from Wikipedia).  I don’t want to get gross and say what it looks like to me, but I’ve watched enough soap opera commercials to say this was more likely something from Mary Magdalene.

The church itself is quite beautiful, even if the blood story is a bit on the “Ripley’s Believe it or not” side of the ledger.  I’m curious if they sent a sample to 23 and Me?  Anyway, here is the church.

I really loved this basketball shaped platform for visiting NBA players to speak to the congregation.  Note Jesus playing a mean bass guitar on top of the basketball lid.  Yes, I already know I’m going to hell.  No need to remind me.

We visited the Chocolate Museum, and the coolest thing we saw there were these hot-chocolate cups for men with mustaches.  Oops…damn!  I suppose nowadays we have to call them “mustached humans”?  So sorry if I offended!

We did some more walking along the canals and ran across this statue of Jan Van Eyck.  He was one of the earliest Netherlandish painters, with some going so far as to say he invented oil painting.  He lived and worked in Bruges from 1429 until his death is 1441.

And now for something completely different, our last night in Bruges we ate at this fabulous Mexican restaurant called Wijnbar Est!  It was so good!  It was the 4th of July, and Mexico is a lot closer to the US than Belgium is, particularly nowadays, with no border whatsoever!

Two last night shots from near the hotel.

Next up, we took an adventure into the Bruges countryside on e-bikes, and we lived to tell the tale!

 

Kotrijk, Belgium

We have used a company multiple times to take us from one city to another when the rail system wasn’t the most convenient (which is rare in Europe, but it happens).  That company is Daytrip.  They have been consistently excellent with their drivers, have always shown up early, and affordable for the excellent service they offer.  One nice feature is their website recommends stops along the route you have chosen, and this time Daytrip recommended a one-hour stop in Kotrijk, Belgium, which we opted for.

The city dates back to the Romans, with funeral pyres discovered that date back to the invasion of Britain in AD 43.  The city is mostly known for the Battle of the Golden Spurs in 1302, when the Flemish massacred all of the French in Bruges.  Kotrijk became ground zero for the French response, which of course the French lost.  July 11 is an official Flemish holiday because of this victory.  I’ll bet all of the French restaurants (there are a LOT in Belgium) are closed that day!

There was a play going on in the middle of town commemorating the battle, and our driver told us this happens every year.  In the photo below you can see the Broel Towers with a “1302” advertisement at the foot of the closest tower.  The near identical Broel Towers were built in the 14th and 15th century, one to control traffic on the river Lys, and the other as an armory.

Here is a shot of the Saint-Martin church, which remains the tallest building in the city at 272 feet.  The church was built in the 13th century, but was mostly rebuilt in the 15th century after a fire.  I gotta say, the interior wasn’t very impressive, although Europe is filled with beautiful churches, so I tend to have high expectations.

We only had an hour so we stopped at a small cafe in the Grote Markt and had some Belgian beer and one of their specialties, cheese croquettes.  Yum!

This is the Belfort of Courtrai.  Courtrai is the old name for Kotrijk.  The belfort (Flemish word for belfrey) was built in 1307, and was used to house the treasury and municipal archives.  It is a UNESCO world heritage site.

On the way back to the car we saw this Joe Biden t-shirt in a store.  Man these guys are quick to respond to one of his screw-ups!

On to Bruges!