Category: Italy/Slovenia/Austria/Liechtenstein/Switzerland, Fall 2021

We chatted with the front desk about our best options to get to Seceda, which is considered one of the best spots to visit in the Dolomites.  You basically have three options.

1. You go to Ortisei and take two gondolas up to the top, no hiking involved…aka…you are a pussy “Instagrammer asshole”.

2. You remain in St. Cristina and drive a short distance to Col. Raiser gondola, take it part of the way up, and hike the final 4km to the top.

3. You hike all the way up.  You are a young Stud (or Studette, or Birthing Studebaker)…I can’t keep things straight these days…damnit…sorry, didn’t mean to say “straight”.

We are not “Instagrammer assholes” nor are we “Birthing Studebakers”, so we picked option 2.

Excellent views all the way to the top!

I’ve read several reviews of this hike, but the views just can’t be talked about, they must be experienced.  This has got to be one of the most beautiful places in the world!

At every turn there is another beautiful view.  I’m so happy I didn’t do this 40 years ago, or I’d still be in debt to Kodak (and I’d have boxes of double prints in my closet).

We were told the trail to the top is well marked.  It may be marked, but unless you know all the waypoints to the top, you will end up way off course like we did.  So, when you see this sign, head uphill, not to the left!

We are heading to Seceda, but the trail to the left wants to take you to the Seceda lift, not the spot we are trying to reach.  Consider this extra half hour of hiking we did as a favor to you!

I presume these are supposed to protect you on your hike?  We saw several of them.  He didn’t help to guide us…and isn’t that what he is supposed to do?  Now if he could make water into wine…I’d have a new best friend!

I will be using the word “incredible” a lot in the Dolomites!  The views are out of this world!  Can you see Kim in this photo?  Squint hard…she’s there! Or just click on the photo and zoom in.  That’s far easier….like taking the gondola from Ortisei!

This is the view to the north.  I could live here.

I’ve heard this place is supposed to be crazy crowded, but I only saw a few other people while we were there.  Late September?  Cool.

Your happy retired hosts!

There is a nice little Refugio, which apparently means “restaurant in the middle of nowhere”, on the way back down.

We had some goulash soup and beer.  They were both excellent!

The views on the way down are just as good as on the way up.  The light was hitting some of the mountains a little better since it was around 3:30 in the afternoon.

Needless to say, if you visit the Dolomites, this is a “must do”!  A final view from the top of the gondola.

Tomorrow, more “incredible”!

 

 

We picked up our rental car in Verona without any issues.  The taxi driver drove straght there, didn’t try to rip me off, and seemed very happy with a 2 euro trip.  I was very surprised!

We pulled off the freeway (Autostrada) in Bolzano, with the intention to visit the South Tyrol Archaeology Museum, where the Iceman, Otzi, is the main exhibit.  We couldn’t get there.  The city is doing major street work, and every left turn we were told by Google to make was either closed or blocked by police.  The traffic was like LA heading to the mountains on a Friday at 5:00 PM…you know…shitty!  The reason we left LA nearly 30 years ago!

Guess we’ll hit it next time.  I think the Iceman will still be there.  We were just 40 minutes from our destination, the Dorfhotel Beludei in St. Cristina, in the Val Gardena valley.

Our view from the room is incredible!  This is directly in front of our balcony.

This is the view to the far left of our balcony.  These mountains are incredible!

This is a zoomed in view of the mountains from our balcony.  You have to stay here!

We walked down to the church that’s been chiming every 15 minutes.  The church and surrounding cemetary are beautiful, but the best views are with the backdrop mountains, that change continually with the clouds.

We discovered a train tunnel that has been restored recently, and allows you to walk through the mountain basically right under our hotel.  Very cool!

The tunnel is well lit, and the constant sound of dripping water reminds you of how much rain this area gets.

At the end of the tunnel were panels that explained the history.

This tunnel was part of the Val Gardena Railway, built in just 5 months by 6000 Russian prisoners of war.  Here’s a historical photo of the rail workers.

It commenced operation in 1917 and was used to transport war goods during WWI.  It went along the entire Val Gardena valley, passing farms and small villages.  After WWII it was used mostly for tourism, until 1960, when it was abandoned.  The railbed was transported into a street and walking promenade with viewpoints and children’s playgrounds.  The tunnel was restored in 2017 and opened to the public for the 100 year anniversary.  The massive iron doors to the tunnel open via motion sensors.

I’m happy we ran across this, and it’s just about 200 meters from our hotel.

The Dorfhotel Beludei rate includes your breakfast and dinner, and dinner last night was excellent, so I’m very happy we chose this place to stay.  They even have an extensive wine cellar, and decent stemware.  Thumbs up!

By the way, you would not know your were in Italy.  Nobody speaks Italian here…pretty much German only, including the staff at the hotel.  After being in Italy for 3+ weeks I keep wanting to say Grazie…I think the locals prefer Danke!

We area headed on a hike up to Seceda tomorrow, one of the more famous parts of the Dolomites.