Verona, Italy

After our fabulous wine trip (thanks again Peter and Nina), we were ready for a relaxing time in a smaller city. Verona is the perfect spot. We did an Airbnb here, and it has an exceptional view of the historic Roman Arena from our balcony.

It was raining when we arrived, but it was light after we checked into our place, so we took a walk around the town. We happened upon Castelvecchio, which was a military fortress, built from 1354 to 1376, as a deterrent against Verona’s powerful neighbors in Venice, as well as the Gonzaga and Sforza families.

A fortified bridge was built from the Castle across the Adige River, which allowed the locals to escape if there were a rebellion of some type. Pretty cool bridge. Here is the view on the bridge looking back towards the castle.

Another view from the bridge.

This is looking down the Adige River.

Looking back towards the bridge from the opposite shore. Kim said it looks like the picture of a puzzle we’ve done. Very likely!

The next day we slept in, and then took a walk around the city. I didn’t notice this last remaining outer portico wall of the arena the prior day as it was raining and I had my umbrella up. Back in the day this wall encircled the entire arena. The rest of it fell down during two major earthquakes in the 12th century.

We walked over to see the famous balcony from Romeo and Juliette.

It appears to be quite closed, with enough guards to keep Biden from falling down (or was it up?) stairs anytime soon. How do you solve an Italian unemployment problem? Have them guard an entrance! Five guys for this?

The next day it was open, and this is what all the fuss is about.

Our guide told us that this isn’t even the original balcony from the building. They simply put this there to make tourists happy. There is also a statue of Juliette, and if you grab her breast it’s supposed to give you good luck in love…or make you part of the Cuomo family.

Our guide also advised us the area was closed the prior day due to filming of a Netflix movie, Love in the Villa. Five guys as guards? Now I know why Netflix keeps increasing their rates!

We walked through the Piazza delle Erbe nearby. Beautiful architecture everywhere! The Winged Lion is the Ventian symbol which you will find throughout Verona, as they were under Venetian rule for a period of time.

Adjacent to the Piazza is the Torre dei Lamberti.

You can go up into the tower (via elevator or stairs) for 6 euros, but only 5 on Monday. Happy Monday! The view from the top is the best in Verona.

As you exit you enter the Piazza dei Signori with this statue of Dante. He was a writer, poet and politician from Florence, but he spent a little time here in Verona, first in 1303, then from 1312 to 1318. He apparently dated Nancy Pelosi during his second stay, when she was in her early 30’s.

Just 50 meters away (see, I’m adapting) are the Arche Scaligere. This is a funery complex built by the Della Scala family, who ruled over the city between the 13th and 14th centuries.

This funerary is for Cangrande (1291-1329), who was the most important and famous of the family. Cangrande is supposed to be on the horse on top, and at least one website states it’s “the most beautiful equestrian statue in history”. I think that’s a bit overblown….I’ve seen some pretty cool horse statues…like earlier today. To top it off, the pictured statue is just a copy, the original is in the museum in Castelvecchio. Was somebody trying to climb up and steal the original because it was just soooo beautiful? Inquiring minds.

We then walked by the Cathedral of Santa Maria, which is just massive, and has a very cool exterior.

We would have gone in, but after the Duomo in Milan, we’ve seen enough Jesus stuff for this trip. I had to post this shot as I caught an angel in the air….or is that a pigeon?

We then walked across the Adige River via Ponte Pietra bridge and took the furnicular up to Castel San Pietro. A grand total of 5 euros for both of us. Ouch!

The furnicular is very modern looking.

The views from the top rival those of the Torre dei Lamberti. I just wish it wasn’t such a hazy day!

The Ponte Pietra Bridge is beautiful from up here. This is the oldest bridge in Verona, completed in 100 BC, and was built to provide access to the Roman Theater on the opposite bank. The red brick portion of the bridge was newer construction from 1957, as the bridge was blown up by retreating German troops during WWII.

The lobby for the furnicular had a photo of the bridge after it was blown up. Damn Nazi’s!

Even though we paid for a round trip, we decided to walk down, as it afforded us a better view of the Roman Theater ruins on the hill below.

The theater was build in the 1st century BC. They started recovering the ruins in 1830. Unfortunately not a lot of the original theater remains.

In the evening there was an orchestra performing in the main square by the Arena. Very cool setting, and you could stand in the back and watch for free.

Kim noted that all of the attendees who actually paid had to wear masks…outdoors…and be 6 feet away from each other. Meanwhile, we were on the other side of the barrier, without masks, right next to each other. I even had a large glass of wine with me, which wouldn’t be allowed if I had paid because it would have been a mask violation to drink it! Holy crap, who comes up with this shit?? Here is the shot of the sheeple.

I know, this is a rather long post, but I wanted to do Verona in one shot. Bear with me. On our guided tour, the guide took us into two stores, and then down to the basement. I never would have known these Roman ruins were here otherwise.

Who doesn’t want to shop amid Roman ruins? This is in the United Colors of Benetton store

Right across the street is the Cos store. They used to be the Cosby store, but that didn’t age well. Pudding Pops anybody?

The ruins are behind glass. Not the best photo op.

One must stop, if you love fresh pasta, is La bottega della Gina. OMG is their pasta good!

I wish I could make pasta this fast! You can order it fresh right after they make it. Yum!

One last shout out to Il Desco restaurant. We did just three courses, but it was truly excellent, and well deserving of their Michelin Star. I can highly recommend this place. The food, the staff, and the experience were all top notch! This ranks as one of the top two meals we have had in Italy in our 3+ weeks here (the other being Cupole in Rapallo). It’s a virtual tie!

Next up, the Dolomites.

Tinto Travels – Parovel Cantina, Hisa Stekar restaurant and winery

We drove 20 minutes from Trieste to Parovel winery, which is nearly on the border with Slovenia.  We first walked around the vineyard and sampled the grapes on the vine, as they were not quite ready to harvest yet (any day now).  Chris is about to ask if they have any Chardonnay (they didn’t).

We then went into the cellar, which was suprisingly small.  They aren’t making a lot of wine here.

They have what looks like parts of a Terminator at the entrance to the cellar to keep out the unwanted humans.  Didn’t work!

We were then treated to an olive oil tasting from oil grown and crushed at their facility.  Sorry, but I’m not an olive oil geek (unlike Tony, who about filled a suitcase with the stuff).  While they had different flavor profiles, I think the bread quality is far more important than the oil.  That’s just me, and this is my blog, so I can pretty much express myself how I want (Facebook can’t ban me here…bite me FB!).  More of that expression coming up (feel free to comment and call me a misguided idiot, it won’t be the first time).  BTW, look at Michelle and Aditi concentrating on that pour!

They then started opening their wines.  Here is where the wine trip, for me, took a little detour from the prior five days.  They opened four wines….two whites and two reds.  The first was a 2016 Malvasia.

Sorry, but I didn’t like it.  Even worse, I didn’t like any of the wines they opened.  Trust me, they were nice people, I wanted to like their wine, but it just wasn’t good.  We had a plethora of excellent wines on this trip, and these just didn’t come close to me.

I stopped taking photos of the bottles because I tend to take photos of wines I like and use that as a reminder should I decide to buy some.  I love Peter and Nina, and would do another trip with them in a heartbeat, but for me (and Kim), this one was off the mark.  Enough about Parovel.

The bus ride back to the hotel was better, because I opened a Vermentino that Peter gave me, and it was the wine of the day (to that point).

We had an hour of rest at the hotel before we departed for our final winery (and dinner) of the trip, Hisa Stekar, located in nearby Kojsko, Slovenia.  After an adventurous bus ride, where the driver took some bad advice from an obviously inebriated Solvenian, and a quick 5 minute walk downhill, we made it to the winery.  The below is a collage of the setting and the food for dinner, courtesy of Tony, the Olive Oil King.

The food was excellent, and the wines were better!  Now this is a great Malvasia!  Maybe it was the Slovenian spelling?

I’m not partial to Cab Franc, but this was pretty damn good!

This was my wine of the day!  Wow, what an excellent Tokai!  I’ve had a couple of Tokai’s before, and I thought I just hated the varietal.  This was awesome!  I will be buying some!  For some reason they are not allowed to put Tokai on the label.  Kim noticed they simply spelled Tokai backwards (in Slovenian).  Yure, the winemaker, let us know that was his son Filip’s handprint on the label (you can barely see it in this photo).

The red wine was also very good!  I don’t recall the varietals.  I think it was Cab Franc and Merlot?

A better shot of the hand on the label.

Here is Yure’s wife Tamara, along with Chris Stotka’s girlfriend, T(amara).

Yure had a friend, Kenzo, in from Naples for harvest, and he gave us a little concert.  I tried to fix him up with Michele, but he spoke almost no English (with the exception of “you are beautiful”…the first thing Italian men learn in English).

One last group shot!  Excellent evening!  The bus driver didn’t even get lost on the way back.

The next morning we were off to Venice airport to drop off the group.  Fortunately, Tinto Travels arranged for the bus to take us to Verona so we didn’t have to hassle with taking the train.  Thanks guys!  Looking forward to seeing the group again some day.  If anybody is thinking about doing this trip, think no more…just sign up already!  You won’t be sorry.

Next up, Verona.