Patreksfjordur, Iceland – The Wild Westfjords

On the north coast of Iceland, from Husavik to the Westfjords, there really aren’t a lot of highlights.  This might explain why this is the least visited part of Iceland.  On the drive we did see this beautiful mountain range, and a sign in front of them.  The locals put this sign up to make it clear they are strictly “No Pylons”, meaning they don’t want to see any power poles running across their land.

With land as beautiful as this, I can understand their stance.

In the northern Westfjords, we stayed in the village of Patreksfjordur.  We took a walk around the town, as it’s not very large, and I made a new friend.  This cat welcomed us as we walked by what I assume is his house, and after a lot of attention, he decided to follow us down the street.  The little dude followed us at least 100 yards to this bench, where he ended up falling asleep on my lap.  What can I say, I’m a cat magnet!

Our first night there gave us this nice sunset.

The next morning we headed out on the peninsula directly across the fjord from Pateksfjordur.  The first sight you run across is this shipwreck, the Gardur BA 64.  This ship was launched in 1912 as a state-of-the-art whaling ship, but it changed owners over the years, until it was owned by an Icelandic company.    It was deemed unsafe for service in 1981, and rather than scuttle the ship it was decided to run it aground where it remains to this day, rusting away.

There are multiple beautiful beaches as you drive along the peninsula.

This old C-117, the military version of a Douglas DC-3, was manufactured in 1944.  This aircraft was instrumental in Iceland in 1973, evacuating people from the Westman Islands during the volcanic eruption that year.  The plane was officially retired from the US Navy in 1977.  There is a monument overlooking the plane honoring all the US servicemen who served in Iceland.

The adjacent Hnjotur Museum has a lot of items from the local area (whale bone tools, ballast from French vessels), but a big part of the museum dealt with a rescue of sailors from the British trawler Dhoon, that wrecked on the local Latrabjarg cliffs in 1947.  The country even made a documentary about it in 1949, as it made international news.  It was all in Icelandic, so we didn’t watch much of it, but I guess for it’s time it was good.  Some of the same people who rescued sailors from the shipwreck acted in the documentary.  This display honors all who were involved, including the women who fed and cared for the men after they were rescued.

This is a typical whaling boat for the area in the 1800’s.  Looks way too small to me!

We then made our way to the Latrabjarg cliffs (where the previously mentioned shipwreck happened), which are well known for bird life, particularly Puffins.

We didn’t see more than a few Puffins up on the tops of the cliffs, but the views are incredible.

On the way back towards the parking lot, we did run across a few of the little guys.  Most of them have left for the season, leaving just these stragglers behind.

This guy looks like he has something to say about being one of the last to leave!

We took a rather daring drive on a super steep dirt road, in the rain, to get to the next spot, Raudisandur Beach, which translates to Red Sand Beach.

The sand is reddish in color due to pulverized scallop shells.  Trust me, this is not an easy beach to get to, particularly since there are no written instructions on where to get beach access.  So, if you come here, go to Melanes Campground on the extreme southeast corner of the beach.  Otherwise it’s a mile+ walk across mudflats and water.

Our second sunset in Patreksfjordur was much better than the first one!  A definite “wow” moment!

On our second day we took a big circular drive near Patreksfjordur.  The day was perfect, and the water was incredibly blue!

We saw this guy swimming along next to the roadway.

As well as this guy resting on a rock.  When I come back I want to be a seal…laying around all day…what a life!

We then visited the Sea Monster Museum in Bildudalur, a rather hokey museum but it was all in good fun.

The interior entrance reminded me of something out of Knott’s Berry Farm.

They had these informative signs up that looked kind of like old west “Wanted” posters.

There were several videos you could watch of Icelandic people telling about the monsters they have seen.  The stories had English subtitles….that were very poorly translated, but you could understand it.  We are talking video from the 70’s and 80’s of people telling their tales of various different monsters that came out of the deep.  Apparently copious amounts of alcohol were readily available at all times…the good old days!

The below depicts a story of a cow that had a monster calf that had to be put down.  The cow sticking out it’s tongue is just bizarre.  Excellent family time stuff!

These next two photos depict some of the most often seen sea monsters in Iceland.  The first one is the “Shore Laddie”, the most frequently sighted, with hundreds of stories dating back to the 18th century.  There are stories where he has tried to mate with sheep, as well as having an affinity for pregnant women.

I’m just gonna say, it looks like a rabid dog to me.  Remember, these people didn’t have contact lenses in the 18th century.  The last sighting was reported in 2014.  No cell phone video?

This one is called the “Merman”, said to  be one of the ugliest beasts ever seen.  People were said to have gone mad just looking at his face.

It’s no coincidence that he’s the spitting image of John Fetterman.

Ok, time to exit the ugly and find some beauty.  We drove about 10 minutes northwest and found what turned out to be our own private beach.

It’s going to be very difficult to adjust the real world and the lack of daily scenes like this!

Our last day in Patreksfjordur we found our way up onto the avalanche safety wall they are building above the village.

The wall will is under construction, and will push any snow that comes down the adjacent mountain into this walled area and funnel it into the harbor.

Even though the construction isn’t done yet, they built this platform, so we had to go up and check it out.

Up next, we take a ferry across Breidafjordur Bay to the Snaefellsnes peninsula, where we will spend our last few days in Iceland.  Sad face emoji.

 

 

 

We head west to Husavik, and run across a canyon…and more waterfalls!

We started our drive back towards the west, headed to Husavik, a good sized and surprisingly beautiful fishing village about half way across the country towards the Westfjords.  Of course, when you are driving the Ring Road, you are bound to come across more waterfalls.  This is Rjukandafoss Waterfall, just off the side of the road.

Bear in mind that before this waterfall, we saw about 6 or 7 pretty good sized ones that just don’t have names.  After awhile, unless it’s pretty impressive, you hardly notice them.

About 90 minutes from Seydisfjordur we arrived at Studlagil Canyon, known for it’s basalt columns.  The hike from the parking lot is about a mile.  Despite thinking the northern areas of Iceland would be less traveled, this was not the case, and the parking lot was full…but my parking karma paid off and we got there just as somebody was leaving.

Maybe 100 yards from the parking lot you run across Studlagil Waterfall….of course there is a waterfall!  Love the basalt columns!

This shot into the canyon would make a great puzzle!

The columns are quite striking.

If you walk far enough you can hike right down into the canyon, but I didn’t want to deal with the crowds, so the photo will have to suffice.  This would be an awesome spot for a kayak ride…or an inner tube!

We had to make a diversion to get to the next spot, Dettifoss Waterfall.  It was interesting that this waterfall is in the middle of a huge open plain…no mountains in site…yet there is this massive waterfall cutting through this canyon in the middle of it all, with so much water you could see the mist hanging in the air from a mile away!  The mist is so abundant that you can barely see the waterfall!

This one definitely deserved videos!

This has to be the waterfall with the most volume of water in Iceland.

Just upstream from Dettifoss is another set of waterfalls.  They don’t drop as far as Dettifoss, but there are so many of them in one place it was quite impressive, and worth the extra short hike.  This one is called Selfoss.

By the way, we were on the West Side of Dettifoss, where the mist persists.  If you want to get up close to the top of the falls, minus the bulk of the mist, you can do so on the East Side, but plan ahead, because you can’t do both without a one hour drive between them.

We drove into Asbyrgi Canyon, but it was late in the day and the end of the canyon wasn’t lit well for photos.  The canyon walls are impressive though.

This canyon is better viewed from above.  The next photo isn’t mine, but it gives you an idea of what the canyon looks like, and why it attracts so many visitors.  If we ever make it back this way this would deserve some more exploring.

We finally arrived in Husavik, just in time to head out to dinner.  By the way, if you ever find yourself here, the best restaurant in town is called Naustid.  We had the best seafood soup and fish here!  Just outstanding!  We should have eaten here both nights.  Plus, they are Hawaii football fans!

As all small villages do, they have a cute church.

The blue church interior seems to be an Icelandic thing.

We loved how their small grocery store is brutally honest in their advertising of a product.

We didn’t have any special plans here, so we checked out the local Whale Museum.

They had numerous whale skeletons in the museum.  This first one is a Minke Whale calf.  The naming of the species is interesting.  A Norwegian whaler named Miencke mistook the whale for a blue whale, and all his friends and co-workers made fun of his mistake by naming this species after him, and the name stuck.

This is the massive lower jaw of a Sperm Whale.  The Sperm Whale is named after spermaceti, which is a semi-liquid waxy substance found in the whales head.  This was the primary substance for making candles back in the day, as the spermaceti would burn without making any smoke.  Man was I wrong on why it was called a Sperm Whale!

The Blue Whale is the largest animal that ever existed, with evidence of reaching 98 feet long, and weighing 199 tons, the same as the combined weight of the hosts of The View!  What an amazing coincidence!

The skeleton is of course the largest they have.  They went out of their way to have perfect skeletal specimens of every whale local to Iceland.

These are some of skeletons on display.  This is a great place to bring kids!

The museum is showing a shortened version of a documentary that seemed very appropriate based on our recent cruise events.  This documentary, “Bloody Tradition, Agree to Disagree”, is based on a 2021 Faroe Islands slaughter of Pilot Whales, which created an international firestorm.  Released in 2022, it has received numerous awards.  We found it very well done, and educational for us since we just encountered our ship pulling a political stunt in the Faroe Islands by refusing to dock (claiming it was due to weather, but we all know that was bullshit as it was calm).  This action was actually based on a Pilot Whale slaughter that happened just a week prior to our planned “arrival”, where the Captain pulled the ship into harbor, spun around a dozen times, and promptly left.

I highly suggest you check out the documentary, despite how dark the subject matter may be.

Here is a shot of Husavik.

One last shot over the Husavik harbor.

Next up, we head further west to the little village of Patreksfjordur, and spend a couple days in the Wild Westfjords!