St. Augustine, Florida; Castillo de San Marcos and Fountain of Youth

To round out our first day we visited Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the United States.  Construction of the fort started in 1672 and was completed in 1695.  It’s design is similar to the Spanish fort in San Juan, Puerto Rico, although much smaller.

The interior of the fort was unfortunately closed due to the “Schumer Shutdown”, but you could still walk around the exterior.

The current fort replaced the original wooden fort that was burned down by the English in 1668.  The fort was constructed with “coquina”, a local sedimentary rock that is composed of crushed seashells compressed over thousands of years.  This made for a much stronger fort that couldn’t be burned down.  It was also able to withstand cannon shots, as the cannon balls would just sink into the walls, rather than shatter them.  Many of the buildings in St. Augustine from the 1600’s up to 1930 were also built with coquina.  Here is a close up photo of the wall of the fort, with what is likely a hole created by a cannonball, as this fort was attacked several times.

Adjacent to the fort is the “Old City Gate”, which is at the entrance to St. George Street, the most popular tourist street in St. Augustine.  It’s kinda like Bourbon Street without the sleaze.  Note the gate is constructed of coquina, just, like the fort.

On our second day we decided to take a Trolley Tour, which makes a stop at Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of Youth!  The trolley is a good way to get around to the various St. Augustine attractions, particularly if you only have a day or two.

The Fountain of Youth is a mystical spring which supposedly restores the youth of anybody that drinks or bathes in it.  Such a fountain has been legend since the 5th century BC, and became prominent in the 16th century when Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon traveled to Florida from Puerto Rico.  Legend has it this is the spot where he landed, discovering this still active spring in 1513.  You can drink from the spring today!  This is the oldest attraction in Florida, with guest books dating back to 1868.

Next to the fountain is this cross made of coquina, which was discovered during some construction in 1916, buried 3 feet underground.  This cross is 15 stones high and 13 stones across , indicating the date of 1513 and is thought to be a religious marker from Ponce de Leon’s expedition, making it the oldest known European artifact in the United States.

Adjacent to the building housing the spring is the Navigator’s Planetarium, with a short show describing how early Spanish and Portuguese explorers navigated  across the Atlantic using the night sky.

Another exhibit is the Discovery Globe, a 30 foot tall globe that depicts Columbus’ voyages by using navigation and the trade winds.  This giant lit up globe debuted at the park in 1959, and was considered an incredible use of technology at that time.  Pretty cool from a nostalgic standpoint!

A short walk towards the bay is this statue of the famous explorer Ponce de Leon.  Gotta admit he looks kinda short!

They have an hourly display of old weapons as well as a cannon firing.  This guy was showing the mechanics of a period crossbow, which was often used at the time as they could be loaded and fired more quickly and worked effectively when it was wet.  The cannon they load with powder is a replica of the cannons that were first brought to this site.  It was plenty loud, and they only used a fraction of the powder that would have been used in the 15th century.

There is a replica Spanish Lookout that provides a good overview of the grounds.  The area in the foreground is the actual first location of St. Augustine, where Spanish explorer Pedro Menendez de Aviles established a settlement in 1565.  This was 55 years before the Pilgrims arrived and 78 years before the founding of Jamestown.  The park has conducted archeological excavations here since 1934.

This is the view of Matanzas Bay from the lookout.  Matanzas mean’s “slaughter” in Spanish, and it’s so named as in 1565 the Spanish murdered French settlers who attempted to settle in the same area as the Spanish city of St. Augustine.  It’s quite odd to know there is a winery in California called Matanzas Creek?

Back at our accommodation, The Collector Inn, I took this photo at this historic site where it was announced in January 1863 that slavery was over by the ringing of this bell.

On our way to dinner that night I took this photo of the Treasury Building, one of the most iconic buildings on the St. Augustine skyline.

After dinner, this being Halloween night we saw several bands playing music, this one in the front yard of their house.

Then this one in a popular bar on St. George Street.

Coming up, we tour Flagler College and visit a couple more famous sites in St. Augustine!

St. Augustine, Florida; Walking Tour, Civil Rights History

We made our longest drive of the trip from Apalachicola to the east coast city of St. Augustine with barely any stops.  It was over a 5 hour drive, but by staying off the freeways it was quite scenic.

We wanted to visit St. Augustine as this is the oldest city in the United States, established in 1565 by Spanish settlers.  It is absolutely chock full of history!  On our first day we took a walking tour booked via Trip Advisor, which we highly recommend as it gives you a good perspective and points out places to go back to later.  We met on Aviles Street, the oldest street in the United States, dating back to the 1570’s.  The building in the background is the Treasury on the Plaza.  In the foreground is a restaurant called Forgotten Tonic, which had the best Shrimp and Grits I had on the entire trip!!  Eat here!  Make sure you request Tatum, she was awesome!

This is looking the other direction along Aviles Street.  Yes, this street is one-way!  The woman in black in front of the salmon colored building might have been a ghost….she was walking down the street and literally disappeared seconds later??

St. Augustine was built in a Spanish style, and therefore has a central square that takes up a whole city block, called Plaza de la Constitucion.  On the corner of this block is this open air market space, that once held a Spanish guard house and watch tower.  When St. Augustine was part of Britain, this became the place of public auction and has since been called the Slave Market, where slaves were bought and sold.

This is where our guide discussed the Civil Rights movement of the early 60’s, and how St. Augustine became a hot bed of protests, sit-in’s, wade-in’s, and other actions of the time.  Here is a photo of protesters walking by the exact same site in 1964.

Our guide took us into what he called the “smallest Hilton Hotel in the world”, as they were not allowed to build upwards so they simply took over a city block and turned individual houses into the hotel rooms.

The hotel sits on the site of the infamous Monson Motel, where the Civil Rights Movement came to a boil in 1964.  The photo below shows the actual steps to the former Monson Restaurant, where MLK told the owner he was going to walk inside and get a cup of coffee.  Side note: yes, it’s not even Halloween and they are already decorating for Christmas!

Here is the hotel owner, James Brock, confronting MLK on the steps of the restaurant.  MLK was arrested shortly after trying to enter the restaurant, which was “whites only”.

Here is a photo of a sit-in outside the Monson Restaurant.  The famous steps can be seen middle right.

Demonstrators pray during a civil rights protest in the parking lot of the Monson Motor Lodge in Saint Augustine, Florida

One more tidbit from this hotel.  A group of  black protesters jumped in the hotel pool a week after the MLK arrest, and the previously mentioned owner, James Brock, is seen dumping muriatic acid into the pool in an effort to get them out.  Numerous reporters got photos of this act and it was broadcast all over the world the next day.  Two weeks later, Lyndon Johnson signed the Civil Rights Act into law.

I liked the heavy Spanish Moss on this tree framing the American Flag.  This stuff is everywhere!  We have been warned multiple times not to grab it as it’s filled with insects called Chiggers, a nasty biting mite!  There is an urban myth that the very first auto recall was the Model T from Ford, as the claim is they used Spanish Moss to stuff the seats, and they were filled with Chiggers.  We heard this myth twice, but my blog research says Ford never used the stuff.  Makes a good story though!

We then heard the history of Henry Flagler, one of the worlds wealthiest men, who first visited St. Augustine in 1883-84, as it was a spot frequented by northeastern high society, and was recommended by doctors to alleviate pulmonary disorders due to the climate.  St. Augustine was not built up at that point, but Flagler saw an opportunity here.  He built a new railroad connection from Jacksonville, and in 1888, his ultra luxurious Hotel Ponce de Leon opened.

In 1968 the gorgeous hotel became Flagler College, and now houses college students.  More on this coming up, as we toured the college a couple of days later.

Our walking tour ended back at the city’s Plaza, at a street corner called Andrew Young Crossing, another historic Civil Rights spot.  On June 9, 1964, Civil Rights leader Andrew Young led a delegation of protesters from their church to the Plaza where they met a group of KKK members.

This set of steps represents Andrew’s walk into the Plaza where he was attacked by the KKK, all caught by the media, bringing further attention to the passage of the Civil Rights Act.

In the center of Plaza de la Constitucion is this monument to the Spanish Constitution of 1812, built when St. Augustine was under Spanish rule.

Directly across the street from the Plaza is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine, the oldest Catholic Church in St. Augustine, built in 1797.  I found the red ceiling quite unique.

We also found a first (for us at least) in the pews, the fact you can use Venmo or Paypal to donate to the church.

Coming up, we visit the cities famous fort and the Ponce de Leon Fountain of Youth!!