Cinque Terre – Riomaggiore

We took a very short 4 minute train ride from Manarola to Riomaggiore.  We would have walked the half mile path along the waterfront, but it’s been closed for the last two years due to a landslide.  I guess the Italian trail crews work just like CalTrans….one guy works while 15 union guys watch.

This was the 5th of 5 villages on our Cinque Terre bucket list.  We had the Cinque Terre card this day, so we could take multiple train rides and it paid for itself several times.   As we exited the train car I saw a conductor run an American down who apparently hadn’t bought a train ticket.  How did I know he was an American?  He wasn’t using his hands to talk!

It was funny though, as he was doing his best to elude the conductor, and even his girlfriend ran away from him and around a corner, which meant he was guilty guilty guilty!  See, don’t put me on a jury!!

This shot is from the waterfront looking back towards the village.

I found an elevator that took you up for an excellent view above the village.

A beautiful overlook with a place to attach Jesus if you happen to have some nails and a decent hammer.  At least he’ll die again….with a decent view!

This would be that view from the cross.  Happy Easter!

When we got back to Vernazza the weather was looking threatening.  Did I make too many Jesus jokes?

Hmmm….maybe his dad is a little peeved?

One last moonlit shot from the balcony in Vernazza.  Holy crap, if you come here you have to stay here!  Thanks Ruth!

Cinque Terre – Manarola and the Pesto Experience

We notched our 4th Cinque Terre village via train, and walked down to the waterfront.  After Vernazza this appeared to be the 2nd most beautiful village.  Here is a shot from the train station.

You walk through this long tunnel to get from the train staion into town.

The streets of Manarola are very narrow.  Actually I should say street, as every other walkway is more like an alley.

At the end of the main street is the picturesque waterfront.

There is a restaurant here that is very well known for the quality of the food and the incredible view, Nessun Dorma (which is the name of an opera aria).  They have a class called the Pesto Experience, where you make pesto and learn about the history of the location.  I’m generally not big on taking classes, but this was informative and fun, and to top it off, it includes lunch and wine!  Even better, at the end of the class you are already seated for lunch.  By the time lunch started, the line to get into the restaurant was about 100 people long, and this is a daily occurence.  Here is a view of the restaurant from the harbor.

Kim is about to rip apart this poor basil plant.  Basil….tasty tasty basil.

The owner of the restaurant, Simone, explaining the process.

The leaves are chilled with ice water so they retain their color after being crushed.

Waiting for the pine nuts before we can begin.

Ready to commence crushing!

Kim hard at work!

Eric and Chris, barely breaking a sweat on their end.  Thank god we have wives!

The finished product.  I was working too hard to get a shot of them adding the pecorino and parmesan cheese, and then the olive oil.

The pesto was pretty good, but the effort was a bit much for a small amount of product.  The lunch was excellent, and the fact we didn’t have to wait in line for over an hour just to get a table was well worth the 50 euros each to take the class.  Highly recommended!  The owner, Simone, is pretty entertaining as well.

He told a story about how he won the chance to start his restaurant when the Mayor of Manarola ran a competition to operate at this location.  The place, despite it’s incredible location, had sat idle for several years.  He presented his vision, and out of just three competitors, his was the best.  He was just 24 years old.  He had to open just two months later.  He created the Pesto Experience to fill the time while his mother was busy cooking in the kitchen.

He advised that his success has angered many of the local residents of Manarola, particularly since he is not from Manarola, but from a city nearby.  Success always seems to breed contempt…it’s not just an American thing!