Martinborough and Wellington

The drive from Napier to Wellington is about 4 hours, so on the advise of Ian, our guide through the Hawkes Bay wineries, we stopped about an hour outside Wellington at Margrain Vineyard.  This is the Martinborough region, where Pinot is supposedly actually palatable (unlike the few Pinots we’ve had so far).

The wines were all quite good, and I think we had 10 of them, including a sparking wine.  Their 2016 Reserve Pinot was the best we have had in NZ so far, and could “almost” be mistaken for a California Pinot…..almost.  The tasting room manger, Kate, is a show on her own, and well worth the visit even if the wines were just ok.  The winery doesn’t ship wine themselves, but a wine store in town does, so we ended up having a mixed case shipped home from there.   The downtown area is like something you’d see in Mayberry RFD, or maybe the movie Pleasantville if you aren’t old enough to remember Mayberry.

I wish we could have hit more wineries, but we had to check in to Wellington at a decent hour so we could at least see part of the city, as we will only be here one evening.  Martinborough is definitely on the list of “next time we are in New Zealand”, and I would give it at least 2 full days.

The drive to Wellington was uneventful.  I had read from at least 2 sources to NOT DRIVE in Wellington, but it was really quite easy to get around, far easier than driving in San Francisco, so I’m not sure where that was coming from.  There are numerous one way streets, but as long as you pay attention I prefer the one way streets to driving on the left side of the road.  For once I can drive on the right!  Little victories!

We took a walk around the waterfront, and let me just say, I’m getting particularly annoyed with the “scooter revolution” going on these days!  Can’t anybody just fricking walk anymore?  There are scooters to the left of me, scooters to the right, here I am, stuck in the middle again.

It appears Wellington has their own version of SF’s “Painted Ladies” with these houses along the shoreline.

This is quite the bizzare little city.  There were a bunch of shipping containers lined up on the waterfront that were the focus of performance “artists”.  We only saw one “performing”.  It was a woman in a wedding dress on workout equipment.  I think it was supposed to depict the plight of the suffering female, and the fact they have to keep looking good right up until the day they get married, after which they can pretty much super size anything they want.  No hate mail from the ladies please….I’m simply exploring my artistic side!  I didn’t take a photo….I was too unnerved by her “artistic” nature.

We saw this sign in a window.  Despite my urges, we didn’t make the call.  I really wanted to see what they could do for me!

Some interesting architecture on the waterfront.  It’s a pretty city, despite the bizzareness.

Our hotel was also on the bizzare side.  It is a top rated hotel on Trip Advisor,  called U Residence, and the room was nice and comfortable, but it’s a hotel that has been set up on the 4th floor of an office building.  The other 3 floors are businesses.  While the accomodations were decent enough, there were tripping hazards galore!  Just walking from the entry to the bed required a large step up, and it was not easy to see.  Kim nearly ended our trip today on her way to make coffee.  There is a balcony but they are half way through installing tile, and it looks like they stopped progress maybe two years ago, so it’s yet another tripping hazard.  Glad were not old folks!

To top it off, it seems the teens in this town like to spend Saturday night drinking beer in a parking lot across the street from the hotel.  There were at least 4 of them sleeping in their car as we left this morning, the ground littered with beer cans. This is their idea of fun?

Next up, the trip to the South Island.

 

Gisborne and Napier

We stayed one night in Gisborne, and from the looks of the place, one night is enough.  The town seems to be mostly industrial, and even then hanging on its last legs.  The place we stayed, the Senator Motor Inn, is right on a very busy street.  Unless you are upstairs, I wouldn’t recommend it.  If you stuck your hand off of our balcony you would likely get hit by a passing cars side mirror!

The restaurant we had dinner at, the Ussco Bar and Grill, was really quite excellent, and it’s right next to the hotel.  It’s the home of a former shipping company, the Union Steamship Company.  I used to work for a steamship company, but we didn’t deal with many steamships.  There are still steamships in the trade though, Matson sails several of them between Hawaii and the mainland, at least for a few more years until new rules will make them obselete.

We did take a walk down the waterfront, and found several historical markers along the way, including this statue of Captain Cook.

This was the first spot Captain Cook landed in New Zealand in 1769, seeking food and water.  As the sign on the statue indicates, one of the Maori natives was killed due to confusion over traditional challenges from the Maori.  Cook and his crew had to withdraw back to his ship after only being able to acquire a few herbs to combat scurvy.  This encounter was the first time the Maori had ever experienced musket fire.  Cook named the bay Poverty Bay since they couldn’t get any provisions….a name that still remains.

The next day we drove south to Napier, and stopped at Matawhero winery along the way.

Beautiful spot, but the wines were just ok.  We are hoping for better wines in the Hawke’s Bay region, just outside Napier.

The drive from Gisborne to Napier is about 3 hours, and it’s more of the same twisty up and down stuff, but the countryside is beautiful and nearly untouched.   If you like driving in the country, this is for you!

Our hotel in Napier, the Pebble Beach Inn, is much nicer, maybe the nicest place we have stayed in New Zealand so far.  The beds are super comfortable….I felt like I was waking from a coma this morning!  The views from our glassed in balcony are excellent.

That grass across the street is likely normally green, but New Zealand is experiencing a terrible drought right now, so a lot of places that are normally green are looking a bit burnt.  The golf courses in particular are looking quite sad!

We walked around town, and it’s definitely more scenic than Gisborne, but it’s still quite crowded, particularly with a cruise ship in port.  Napier is known for their Art Deco style of architecture.  Following an earthquake in the 1931, most of the town was leveled, so they had a clean slate to build something new.  Not really our style, but the locals seem very proud of it!

They even offer tours around town.  We saw a bunch of people taking pictures of a staircase.  I looked at it and couldn’t figure out why, but then I wasn’t wearing the fancy headset that explained it all.

We had dinner at Pacifica, and they offer a 5 course seafood menu with paired wines for $115 each, which is really quite a bargain.  Keep in mind that’s about $70 US each, and that included 5 glasses of pretty damn good wine!  Definitely a must visit if you come to Napier.

The next day we had booked a wine tour with Prinsy’s Tours.  Ian was our guide for the day, and he did an excellent job.

We hit 5 wineries, had an excellent pizza lunch at the 2nd winery, and went to the top of Te Mata Peak all between 10:30 AM and 5:00 PM.  The wineries we hit were:

      1. Linden Estate Winery – we bought a bottle of Port, really excellent!
      2. Moana Park – excellent pizza!  We bought a bottle of Sauv Blanc here…very good.
      3. Trinity Hill
      4. Ash Ridge Wines – see note below
      5. Pask Winery

At Ash Ridge Wines they have a label called Alti, which is short for an “alternative” style of wines.  Their Riesling was the best wine of the day for me, so we ordered a case and will have it shipped to the US.  Truly a “wow” wine!  If you have any interest, check out the link.

Here was the lineup at Linden Estate….all of the wineries were pouring a lot of wines.  I’m not complaining since Ian is driving!

The tasting room at Trinity Hill.

The winery region directional sign outside Ash Ridge.

Our small group at Pask Winery.  There were only 4 of us with Ian, versus some of the other groups that were far too many.

The view from Te Mata Peak.  Unfortunately it was a bit of a hazy day.

If you come to Hawkes Bay, make sure you contact Prinsy’s Tours and ask for Ian!  Here is the link.

Next up, Martinborough and Wellington.