One of the least visited parts of New Zealand is the East Cape of the North Island. It is a twisty up and down long drive much like the Pacific Coast Highway in California. As a matter of fact, it’s actually called the Pacific Coast Highway! Damn copycats!
The road from Rotorua opens up to the Pacific Ocean just outside Whakatane, known as the “Gateway to White Island”. Quick reminder, White Island is the volcano that erupted in December last year, killing 21 people. Needless to say, serveral of the businesses that rely on the volcano are hurting. A short drive later we found ourselves on beautiful Ohope Beach. That’s White Island in the background belching away.
White Island was named by Captain Cook in October 1769 due to the white steam that constantly rises from the island. It was very cool to watch the variations in the amounts of steam rising from the island. Hopefully our cruise ship later in the trip will get us a bit closer. Something scary to ponder, Kim and I were booked to visit the island via helicopter this March via our cruise ship. Needless to say, that shore excursion has been cancelled. Still kinda pissed about it….what an experience it would have been, but I think the days of people visiting the island are over.
The sand on the beach had this very intricate light and dark criss cross pattern that I found quite interesting. It would change slightly with every wave that came ashore. The below photo is the sand after the water recedes (from left to right).
Our final destination for the night was the Lottin Point Motel, in a very remote part of the East Cape. About an hour before Lottin Point I had arranged for a jetboat tour up the Motu River.
Mark Looney with Motu River Jetboat was our driver, and it was an exhilirating ride up the river. He advised we were going about 60 MPH and we ended up going 15 km up the river. Needless to say we didn’t see another soul on the trip.
This minute long video was along a pretty quick part of the trip. I would do this again in a heartbeat. If you find yourself travelling the East Cape, make sure you contact Mark in advance, as this isn’t his day job, just his passion. Here is his link.
At the upper 15 km mark, Mark pulls the boat over to the shore and guides you about 50 yards to this spot.
This is inside a very narrow canyon off the river. Mark discovered it 3 years ago while checking something out on the riverbank and hearing the roar of the falls. Unless you go on this tour, nobody ever sees this waterfall! The water was so crystal clear….I was very tempted to go in!
We got back on the road toward Lottin Point, knowing we were supposed to be there by 7:00 PM to check in. We ended up getting there at 7:15, but it turned out ok, the manager there was courteous enough. We did encounter 4 cows on the road on the way in….right in the middle of the road! The horn got them moving, albeit very slowly, with a begrudging look as we passed by.
The Lottin Point Motel has a restaurant on the premises, which is a good thing. The nearest food from there is about 40 km away, at least. The manager expects you to order exactly how it is laid out on the menu. Do NOT ask for steamed veggies or veggies at all. You will get french fries and you will like them! Think Seinfeld and the Soup Nazi, and you will understand. Better to understand than to go to bed hungry!
Here is the sky as we were finishing dinner on the patio.
The place may be a tad on the older and curmudgeonly side, and there may be a few locals in their bar getting hammered at night, but the views are to die for, and there really aren’t that many options way out here in East Cape land. Here is the view from our room in the morning.
I will say that despite the rigor of the meal, both dinner and breakfast were quite good. I must say the french fries were the best I’ve had in a long time, despite the fact they weren’t the steamed veggies that Kim wanted.
Be warned, checkout time in New Zealand seems to be 10:00 AM…..everywhere. We are not the earliest of risers, so this crept up on us the last couple of days. Also be warned that New Zealand hasn’t discovered screens for windows! They do have bugs, so this makes no sense!
Here is a shot looking north towards Hicks Bay. It’s amazing how much of this area is untouched.
Along the road in Te Araroa is the oldest Pohutukawa tree (New Zealand Christmas tree) in New Zealand, at around 600 years old. That’s Kim at the base of the tree.
A closer view of the branch structure. That is an aerial root sticking out from the branch. Once it reaches the ground it will take root and spread the tree even further.
Further along to the south is Tolaga Bay, and it’s historic wharf. This was the areas primary means for trade in the late 1920’s forward. Unfortunately the wharf was used to transport the materials used to create a road to Gisborne, the nearest large city. That road made the wharf uncompetitive with trucking, so the wharf fell into serious disrepair. The locals have made it their mission to restore the wharf, and it’s open to walk to the end and back. As a former Wharfinger, I love wharfs!
From the parking lot. Definitely a must stop if you find yourself on this trek.
Just around the corner from this wharf is a hike to the spot where Captain Cook landed in this part of the cape, called Cooks Cove Walkway. It’s a mid length hike at 5.8 km. We didn’t have the time to fit this in, but if you are coming this way try to plan for it. It looks like a great little slice of history.
Everytime you turn around there is another beautiful beach to visit.
As well as plenty of beautiful ocean vistas.
Next up, Gisborne and Napier.
