Granada, Spain

Home to some of the narrowest streets yet, we arrived in Granda and found our way to the hotel, but not without getting lost….and heading up some streets that I didn’t think our car would fit through.  There was a small car following me and I actually had to stop and ask him if we were going where cars should be going!  He told me to pull in our mirrors and we’d be fine.

I think I scraped the outside of a mirror, but we made it through.  I hate these narrow streets!  This sign says it all!  Why is it only in English??

Here is a sign as we leave the hotel.  If you aren’t careful you can walk out the front door and directly into a moving car or bus.

The one thing that everybody must see in Granada is The Alhambra, a palace and fortress that dominates the views of the city.

Starting out as a small fortress built on top of Roman ruins in 889, and then renovated and rebuilt in the mid-13th century by the Moors.  After the Christians took it back in 1492, it became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella.  This is the site where Christopher Columbus received Isabella’s endorsement for his mission to sail across the “ocean blue”.

Here is a night shot that was our view from the restaurant our first night.

We read and heard a lot of warnings about tickets selling out, but there was really no line to get in, and it never really seemed all that crowded during the 6 hours we were there.

First stop was the Generalife (the “life” part is pronounced “leafy”) gardens.  That’s Kim way down there…..she had to practically push some people into the water to get them to move.  Lots of self absorbed selfie obsessed people at this place!

Wow….I found a spot in the garden with nobody standing there taking their own photo!

The Moors loved their water features.  They are everywhere.

Kim wearing her audio guide.  These were not included in the ticket price, but for 6 euros each they were well worth it.  There is very little in the way of descriptions to read throughout the Alhambra.

The best part of the Generalife to us was the Water Stairway.  Water is running along a system of gutters on both sides of the stairways, some of it going into fountains at each landing.  Very cool!

Next stop was lunch at a nice little restaurant inside the Alhambra, and then off to the Charles the V palace.  Built within the walls of the Alhambra in 1526, Charles wanted a palace that would be befitting of a Holy Roman Emperor (I’m pretty sure Robin said “Holy Roman Emperor” to Batman at least once).

There was a gate inside called the Wine Gate, which immediately drew my interest.  Considered to be one of the oldest constructions of the Alhambra, dating back to the mid 9th century.  The Alhambra website has these two possible reasons it was called the wine gate (I found it odd to have a wine gate in a muslim site):

Since 1556, the neighbours of the Alhambra left at this gate the wine that they drunk and which was not submitted to taxation. This is a possible explanation for the gate’s name, although there is another theory, according to which the name is the result of a mistake. Apparently two words got muddled up: «Bib al-hamra’», meaning Red Gate or Gate to the Alhambra, which would be the original name of the gate, and «Bib al-jamra», meaning Wine Gate. This second theory would then prove that this was the access gate to the higher Alhambra.

Your ticket comes with a specific time to visit the Nasrid Palaces, and if you miss it you have to pay for a new ticket to get in.  They are quite strict about this.  I really don’t understand why, because once you are in there are no restrictions on how long you can stay.  Whatever.  The place is beautiful, and I will only post a few photos because I think I took about 50.

There were baths modeled after Roman Thermal Baths, and they have been restored only recently.  You could not enter, but the following two photos show the view from above, and the view from inside the hot baths.

Our last stop was the Alcazaba, which is the part of the Alhambra that most people notice, the large tower that overlooks the city of Granada.  Plenty of snow on the mountains in the background.

In the middle of this picture you can see a wall with a line of people sitting on it.  This was like a crazy hippy drunk fest when we walked through it the day prior.  I don’t know if the numerous people with dreads were the result of “fashion” or just not showering for weeks on end.  Granada is definitely the Berkeley of Spain.

There was a lot of smoke hanging over the city because it seems a lot of the people on the outskirts of the city are burning refuse.

Bonus shot since Kim is tired of being featured so much!

The morning before we left Granada we took a walking tour of the area of the city we were staying in, the Albayzin.  We toured a restored Moorish house, and the owner there loved collecting various metal objects.  On the right are door knockers, and on the left are door hooks to help you in opening and closing the doors.  This guy had stacks and stacks of knockers,  so many that I think he knows more about knockers than Hugh Hefner!!

Here is Hugh Jr. himself.  See that medicine bowl and grinder behind him on the table?  I think he had at least 20 of those scattered around the house.

Off to Cordoba!  Let’s hope the streets are a little bit wider.

 

 

 

 

 

Ronda, Spain

The drive from Gibraltar to Ronda takes you over some very hilly terrain and past a bunch of small towns called Pueblos Blancos (White Towns) due to every building being painted white.  They were dotted all over the route we took, with little turn offs to view them called miradors (lookouts).

Here is a graphic layout of the numerous Pueblos Blancos.  Note the “You are Here” arrow.

We checked into our hotel in Ronda and hit the bar for a well deserved beer and a snack.  Driving in these little towns is quite stressful!

Our hotel has an excellent view of one of the oldest bullrings in Spain.  Orson Welles and Ernest Hemmingway were big fans of bullfights in Ronda, as they are depicted everywhere around town, with plaques, hotels, restaurants and streets named after them.

We took a quick walk around the edge of a portion of the “new” town, which literally sits on a cliff.

The new town versus the old town is really not that accurate, since the new portion dates from the 1700’s.  They are both old.

Sunset from the top floor of our hotel.  This would be a very cool infinity pool if the water wasn’t about 60 degrees!

We found out there was a Michelin Star restaurant in town (Bardal) so we ate there the first night.  Sad to report it was just ok, but they were heavy handed with the wine pours so perhaps they are compensating!  I’ll spare you the photos.

We took a tour of the “old” town the next day, and it’s got some great cliff views.  As a matter of fact, in Hemminway’s “For Whom the Bell Tolls” he describes the execution of Nationalist sympathizers (friends of Franco) during the Spanish Civil War.  They were apparently thrown from the cliffs of Ronda at this spot.

There is a very famous spot to take a picture of Puente Nuevo (new bridge, again built in the 1700’s….guess that makes me newer!), which was blocked off with directions on how to get the same view, albeit by hiking a few miles.

Screw that!  You could pull back the left side of the fencing and walk around it.  Just a few more impediments on the way down.

I don’t speak Spanish, I have no idea what that sign says.

Dangerous path, real risk of death!!!  As you can see, there are two other people down there besides us.  One of them was certain I was a cop when he first saw me…looked like he was ready to bolt!  The view at the bottom made it worth it to convince Kim to break the law.  This wasn’t the first time…but that’s another story.

This is the same view the Nationalists got right before they hit the ground, so it wasn’t ALL bad.  The canyon the river runs through is called El Tajo, and there are gardens planted above it with great views.  Here is a view from the other side of Puente Nuevo bridge, taken by Cory and Spencer from San Francisco, who we met at this spot.  Say hi if you see this guys!

We ate at this great little restaurant in the “old” city called Santa Maria.  The food was excellent, and the staff was so welcoming and fun.  Great dinner experience.  The owner, Antonio, wanted to know what city we were from and had us spell it out.  We found out why when he brought us a free dessert after our meal.  Definitely a “must do” if you are in Ronda!

The last view of Ronda, Puente Nuevo bridge lit up at night (btw, the “old” bridge was rather boring by comparison, hence no photos).