Chablis, France

Chablis, while having it’s own distinct style and flavor profiles, is still a part of the wine region of “Burgundy”. The further northern latitude produces wines with more acidity and lower fruit flavors than Chardonnay grown in southern Burgundy. Chablis also typically uses a lot less oak than their southern counterparts.

For my non-wine friends, Burgundy is known for two grape varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (aka Red Burgundy and White Burgundy). Chablis ONLY makes Chardonnay.

Our first stop after we checked in was a snack and of course, some Chablis.

We walked about 50 yards for a tasting at one of the most famous wineries in Chablis, William-Fevre. The rocks below are descriptive of the type of soil in the region.

Excellent tasting of about 7 wines, ending with the Grand Cru, which was very good. The 2019 was even better that the 2018, but it was so acidic I didn’t think it would be ready to drink for a decade! Who’s got that kind of time?

The next day I had three tastings lined up, but Kim wasn’t feeling very well, so I did these solo. All three of these wineries sell their wine via Garagiste, a Seattle area importer I use to buy the bulk of my white wines. First up was Domaine Charly Nicolle.

The winery owners wife Lucie took time out of her busy day to pour me a bunch of their wine. She was busy boxing up shipments when I arrived, so I tried not to linger too long. The wines were all excellent, and I look forward to seeing them come up on Garagiste soon. Unfortunately I didn’t get shots of any of the people I was tasting with in Chablis.

This shot shows the vineyards nearby.

I drove up into the vineyards on the opposing hillside to get a better photo.

The vineyards on the top of the hills are much rockier than at the lower levels.

Tasting #2 was Eleonore Moreau. Eleonore is one of the few female winemakers in Chablis, but that’s changing. Her father is the farmer, and would rather be out in the vineyard all day, and that’s just fine by her. She ages her Chablis in stainless steel tanks for much longer than most other producers to achieve an elevated flavor profile. Excellent wines that I’ve yet to see on Garagiste, but will be watching out for them. The 1er Cru in particular was outstanding, with lovely acidity and minerality.

My last tasting was with Guillaume Vrignaud, winemaker for Domaine Vrignaud. Stock photo since I was so lame with my camera.

This was my favorite tasting in Chablis, as Guillaume is a passionate advocate for the region, and was able to answer all of my wine geeky questions. They have a super cool tasting room in their cellar, which was a nice break from the heat of the summer day.

He also opened a ton of his wine, including a 2015 that he wanted me to try to see how well Chablis can age. I ended up bringing one of those home to open with friends.

I buy a lot of Domaine Vrignaud from Garagiste, but after tasting several of his wines I’ll definitely be ordering more than I usually do. Thanks so much Guillaume!

On the way back into the little town of Chablis, I stopped and took some photos of the Grand Cru vineyards.

The Grand Cru “Les Clos” vineyard in the foreground, the town of Chablis in the background.

Before we departed the next morning I brought Kim up to the top of the Grand Cru lookout.

I definitely found Chablis to be a worthwhile trip, just don’t expect it to have the amenities that can be found in southern Burgundy. Regardless, it’s a great spot and you won’t see many tourists, and I love that aspect of it. Just need to brush up on what little French I know, as the locals barely speak English.

This marked the end of our trip, minus our horrible plane flight home…21 hours on a flight that was supposed to last 10….it was too horrid to relive right now. I’ll likely mention it in a trip wrap up.. Thanks for reading!

Beaune, France – The Heart of Burgundy

We crammed our friends John and Katie into the back seat of our rental car and headed south towards Beaune.  We had to make one stop at a Champagne house on the way, one of our favorites, Gosset.

Gosset is the oldest “wine” house in Champagne, not to be confused with the oldest “Champagne” house in Champagne, (Ruinart).  Gosset started making still wine in 1584, but switched over to Champagne when it became popular with the French nobility in the 19th century.  The below is a very creepy photo of Pierre Gosset, the founder of the winery.  Pierre is the one on the right, don’t mix up your creepy figures.

We were supposed to do a full tour of the cellars, but my car’s Nav system took us to their commercial winery.  It turned out ok, we had an excellent tasting by a super nice host, and we’ve seen plenty of cellars at this point.

Ok, a quick “pro tip” regarding the toll lanes in France.  If you see the following sign…

…do NOT get in the lane with the “t” unless you have a transponder.  If you are tourist, you likely don’t have a transponder!  The lane with the green arrow is to pay with a credit card.  Don’t ask me how I know this!  Jeez, I can still hear the cars honking at me!  What an embarrassing clusterfuck that was!  Onwards…

The next day in Beaune we had a tasting at Domaine Drouhin that Randy had set up.

Randy recently befriended Veronique Drouhin, their Head Winemaker, and she gave us the private tour treatment.  This press from the 13th century still works, and is used for special wines from time to time.

The cellars are beautiful, and a perfect spot to escape the summer heat.

Our tour group, ready to taste!

Randy is standing in front of a 3rd century Roman wall.

If you read the book “Wine and War”, and you should, there is a story about Maurice Drouhin, who was helping the French resistance against the Germans during WWII.  The Gestapo came to take him away and execute him in June 1944, and he escaped from the cellars via this door, now known as the “Door of Freedom”.

Kim and Kari in front of all the wines we tried.  This was an exceptional tasting!

This was my favorite wine of the tasting, and of course it’s a Grand Cru.  Damn focus!

If the private tour and tasting wasn’t enough, Veronique set up a lunch for us inside the winery, and opened some more excellent wines!  Apparently Randy makes a really good impression!

Her husband Michel is on the far left, and Veronique is third from the left, between Katie and John.  Really appreciate the hospitality!!

We stayed at a really nice spot just outside the ramparts of Beaune called Le Clos De L’Aigue.  I highly recommend it, as it’s super quiet and comfortable.  They even have a pool, which was perfect for the summer heat.

They also have chickens!

We had a tasting and lunch lined up for our last day, but both Kim and I got sick, so we stayed close to the hotel.  I did give Randy and Kari a ride to the airport so they could take their private chartered jet to the south of France.

One last shot of Burgundy on the way back to the hotel.  Super beautiful this time of year!

Up next we head to our last location before flying home, Chablis, France.