Petersontravels

We picked up our rental car in Verona without any issues.  The taxi driver drove straght there, didn’t try to rip me off, and seemed very happy with a 2 euro trip.  I was very surprised!

We pulled off the freeway (Autostrada) in Bolzano, with the intention to visit the South Tyrol Archaeology Museum, where the Iceman, Otzi, is the main exhibit.  We couldn’t get there.  The city is doing major street work, and every left turn we were told by Google to make was either closed or blocked by police.  The traffic was like LA heading to the mountains on a Friday at 5:00 PM…you know…shitty!  The reason we left LA nearly 30 years ago!

Guess we’ll hit it next time.  I think the Iceman will still be there.  We were just 40 minutes from our destination, the Dorfhotel Beludei in St. Cristina, in the Val Gardena valley.

Our view from the room is incredible!  This is directly in front of our balcony.

This is the view to the far left of our balcony.  These mountains are incredible!

This is a zoomed in view of the mountains from our balcony.  You have to stay here!

We walked down to the church that’s been chiming every 15 minutes.  The church and surrounding cemetary are beautiful, but the best views are with the backdrop mountains, that change continually with the clouds.

We discovered a train tunnel that has been restored recently, and allows you to walk through the mountain basically right under our hotel.  Very cool!

The tunnel is well lit, and the constant sound of dripping water reminds you of how much rain this area gets.

At the end of the tunnel were panels that explained the history.

This tunnel was part of the Val Gardena Railway, built in just 5 months by 6000 Russian prisoners of war.  Here’s a historical photo of the rail workers.

It commenced operation in 1917 and was used to transport war goods during WWI.  It went along the entire Val Gardena valley, passing farms and small villages.  After WWII it was used mostly for tourism, until 1960, when it was abandoned.  The railbed was transported into a street and walking promenade with viewpoints and children’s playgrounds.  The tunnel was restored in 2017 and opened to the public for the 100 year anniversary.  The massive iron doors to the tunnel open via motion sensors.

I’m happy we ran across this, and it’s just about 200 meters from our hotel.

The Dorfhotel Beludei rate includes your breakfast and dinner, and dinner last night was excellent, so I’m very happy we chose this place to stay.  They even have an extensive wine cellar, and decent stemware.  Thumbs up!

By the way, you would not know your were in Italy.  Nobody speaks Italian here…pretty much German only, including the staff at the hotel.  After being in Italy for 3+ weeks I keep wanting to say Grazie…I think the locals prefer Danke!

We area headed on a hike up to Seceda tomorrow, one of the more famous parts of the Dolomites.

 

After our fabulous wine trip (thanks again Peter and Nina), we were ready for a relaxing time in a smaller city. Verona is the perfect spot. We did an Airbnb here, and it has an exceptional view of the historic Roman Arena from our balcony.

It was raining when we arrived, but it was light after we checked into our place, so we took a walk around the town. We happened upon Castelvecchio, which was a military fortress, built from 1354 to 1376, as a deterrent against Verona’s powerful neighbors in Venice, as well as the Gonzaga and Sforza families.

A fortified bridge was built from the Castle across the Adige River, which allowed the locals to escape if there were a rebellion of some type. Pretty cool bridge. Here is the view on the bridge looking back towards the castle.

Another view from the bridge.

This is looking down the Adige River.

Looking back towards the bridge from the opposite shore. Kim said it looks like the picture of a puzzle we’ve done. Very likely!

The next day we slept in, and then took a walk around the city. I didn’t notice this last remaining outer portico wall of the arena the prior day as it was raining and I had my umbrella up. Back in the day this wall encircled the entire arena. The rest of it fell down during two major earthquakes in the 12th century.

We walked over to see the famous balcony from Romeo and Juliette.

It appears to be quite closed, with enough guards to keep Biden from falling down (or was it up?) stairs anytime soon. How do you solve an Italian unemployment problem? Have them guard an entrance! Five guys for this?

The next day it was open, and this is what all the fuss is about.

Our guide told us that this isn’t even the original balcony from the building. They simply put this there to make tourists happy. There is also a statue of Juliette, and if you grab her breast it’s supposed to give you good luck in love…or make you part of the Cuomo family.

Our guide also advised us the area was closed the prior day due to filming of a Netflix movie, Love in the Villa. Five guys as guards? Now I know why Netflix keeps increasing their rates!

We walked through the Piazza delle Erbe nearby. Beautiful architecture everywhere! The Winged Lion is the Ventian symbol which you will find throughout Verona, as they were under Venetian rule for a period of time.

Adjacent to the Piazza is the Torre dei Lamberti.

You can go up into the tower (via elevator or stairs) for 6 euros, but only 5 on Monday. Happy Monday! The view from the top is the best in Verona.

As you exit you enter the Piazza dei Signori with this statue of Dante. He was a writer, poet and politician from Florence, but he spent a little time here in Verona, first in 1303, then from 1312 to 1318. He apparently dated Nancy Pelosi during his second stay, when she was in her early 30’s.

Just 50 meters away (see, I’m adapting) are the Arche Scaligere. This is a funery complex built by the Della Scala family, who ruled over the city between the 13th and 14th centuries.

This funerary is for Cangrande (1291-1329), who was the most important and famous of the family. Cangrande is supposed to be on the horse on top, and at least one website states it’s “the most beautiful equestrian statue in history”. I think that’s a bit overblown….I’ve seen some pretty cool horse statues…like earlier today. To top it off, the pictured statue is just a copy, the original is in the museum in Castelvecchio. Was somebody trying to climb up and steal the original because it was just soooo beautiful? Inquiring minds.

We then walked by the Cathedral of Santa Maria, which is just massive, and has a very cool exterior.

We would have gone in, but after the Duomo in Milan, we’ve seen enough Jesus stuff for this trip. I had to post this shot as I caught an angel in the air….or is that a pigeon?

We then walked across the Adige River via Ponte Pietra bridge and took the furnicular up to Castel San Pietro. A grand total of 5 euros for both of us. Ouch!

The furnicular is very modern looking.

The views from the top rival those of the Torre dei Lamberti. I just wish it wasn’t such a hazy day!

The Ponte Pietra Bridge is beautiful from up here. This is the oldest bridge in Verona, completed in 100 BC, and was built to provide access to the Roman Theater on the opposite bank. The red brick portion of the bridge was newer construction from 1957, as the bridge was blown up by retreating German troops during WWII.

The lobby for the furnicular had a photo of the bridge after it was blown up. Damn Nazi’s!

Even though we paid for a round trip, we decided to walk down, as it afforded us a better view of the Roman Theater ruins on the hill below.

The theater was build in the 1st century BC. They started recovering the ruins in 1830. Unfortunately not a lot of the original theater remains.

In the evening there was an orchestra performing in the main square by the Arena. Very cool setting, and you could stand in the back and watch for free.

Kim noted that all of the attendees who actually paid had to wear masks…outdoors…and be 6 feet away from each other. Meanwhile, we were on the other side of the barrier, without masks, right next to each other. I even had a large glass of wine with me, which wouldn’t be allowed if I had paid because it would have been a mask violation to drink it! Holy crap, who comes up with this shit?? Here is the shot of the sheeple.

I know, this is a rather long post, but I wanted to do Verona in one shot. Bear with me. On our guided tour, the guide took us into two stores, and then down to the basement. I never would have known these Roman ruins were here otherwise.

Who doesn’t want to shop amid Roman ruins? This is in the United Colors of Benetton store

Right across the street is the Cos store. They used to be the Cosby store, but that didn’t age well. Pudding Pops anybody?

The ruins are behind glass. Not the best photo op.

One must stop, if you love fresh pasta, is La bottega della Gina. OMG is their pasta good!

I wish I could make pasta this fast! You can order it fresh right after they make it. Yum!

One last shout out to Il Desco restaurant. We did just three courses, but it was truly excellent, and well deserving of their Michelin Star. I can highly recommend this place. The food, the staff, and the experience were all top notch! This ranks as one of the top two meals we have had in Italy in our 3+ weeks here (the other being Cupole in Rapallo). It’s a virtual tie!

Next up, the Dolomites.